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Cylinder Block Assembly

Engine, Cooling and Exhaust › Engine
Unified entry — merged from multiple cross-listed pages in the original manual.
Procedures
Engine Block - Inspection15 steps
ℹ NOTE
A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.
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  1. Wipe the main bearing inserts (1,2) clean.
  2. Inspect the inserts for abnormal wear patterns, scoring, grooving, fatigue, pitting and for metal or other foreign material imbedded in the lining.
  3. Inspect the back of the inserts for fractures, scrapes or irregular wear patterns.
  4. Inspect the insert locking tabs for damage.
  5. Inspect the crankshaft thrust washers for scoring, scratches, wear or bluing.
  6. Replace any bearing that shows abnormal wear.
  7. Inspect the main bearing bores for signs of scoring, nicks and burrs.
  8. If the cylinder block main bearing bores show damage, replace the engine block.
  9. Use Cylinder Indicator (2) to correctly measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore (3). A cylinder bore gauge capable of reading in 0.003 mm (0.0001 in.) Increments is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer.
  10. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below the top of the bore (4). Start at the top of the bore, perpendicular (across or at 90°) to the axis of the crankshaft at point A (1).
  11. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
  12. Determine the taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
  13. Rotate the measuring device 90° to point B (1) and repeat the three measurements. Verify that the maximum taper is within specifications.
  14. Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
  15. If the cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.015 mm (0.0006 inch) then the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition exceeds the maximum limits, replace the cylinder block.
Cylinder Bore Honing5 steps
△ CAUTION
DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove cylinder wall glaze.
△ CAUTION
DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
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  1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone , equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
  2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder surfacing hone, Honing Tool , equipped with 280 grit stones (). about 20-60 strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil , or a light honing oil, available from major oil distributors.
  3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2).
  4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle.
  5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
Engine Block - Cleaningreference
CLEANING Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces. Use compressed air to clean out: -The galley at the oil filter adaptor hole. -The front and rear oil galley holes. -The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings. Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the plugs to 34 Nm (25 ft. lbs.)
Factory service manual
From the 2008 KK factory manual — descriptions, specs, torque & procedures for this part.
BLOCK📷 1
18. Disconnect the engine wiring harness at the following points:  Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
 Fuel Injectors
 Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)
 Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
 Engine Oil Pressure Switch
 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
 Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
 Coil Over Plugs
 Crankshaft Position Sensor (2)
19. Remove coil over plugs. 20. Release fuel rail pressure. 21. Remove fuel rail and secure away from engine.
1 - NUT 2-
STRAP 3-
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BLOCK📷 2
24. Connect the engine wiring harness at the following points:  Intake air temperature (IAT) sensor
 Fuel Injectors
 Electronic Throttle Control (ETC)
 Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor
 Engine Oil Pressure Switch
 Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
 Manifold Absolute Pressure MAP) Sensor
 Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
 Coil Over Plugs
 Crankshaft Position Sensor (2)
1 - LOWER BOLTS 2 - REAR BOLT 3 - GENERATOR
25.   Connect lower radiator hose.
26.   Connect upper radiator hose.
27.   Connect throttle and speed control cables.
28.   Install the heater hose assembly.
29.   Install coolant recovery bottle.
30.   Install the power steering pump.
31.   Install the generator (3). Refer to INSTALLATION .
 32.   Install the A/C compressor (2).
 33.   Install the drive belt. Refer to INSTALLATION .
 34.   Install the fan shroud with the electric fan assembly. Refer to INSTALLATION .
 35.   Install the radiator core support bracket.
 36.   Install the air cleaner assembly.
 37.   Refill the engine cooling system.
 38.   Install the hood.
 39.   Check and fill engine oil.
 40.   Connect the battery negative cable.
 41.   Start the engine and check for leaks.

Specifications

3.7L ENGINE
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ENGINE BLOCK
The cylinder block is made of cast iron. The block is a closed deck design with the left bank forward. To provide high rigidity and improved NVH an enhanced compacted graphite bedplate is bolted to the block. The block design allows coolant flow between the cylinders bores, and an internal coolant bypass to a single poppet inlet thermostat is included in the cast aluminum front cover.
CYLINDER BORE HONING📷 1
1 - CROSSHATCH PATTERN 2 - INTERSECT ANGLE
Before honing, stuff plenty of clean shop towels under the bores and over the crankshaft to keep abrasive materials from entering the crankshaft area.
1. Used carefully, the Cylinder Bore Sizing Hone C-823, equipped with 220 grit stones, is the best tool for this job. In addition to deglazing, it will reduce taper and out-of-round, as well as removing light scuffing, scoring and scratches. Usually, a few strokes will clean up a bore and maintain the required limits.
CAUTION: DO NOT use rigid type hones to remove cylinder wall glaze.
2. Deglazing of the cylinder walls may be done if the cylinder bore is straight and round. Use a cylinder surfacing hone, Honing Tool C-3501, equipped with 280 grit stones (C-3501-3810). about 20-60 strokes, depending on the bore condition, will be sufficient to provide a satisfactory surface. Using honing oil C- 3501-3880, or a light honing oil, available from major oil distributors.
CAUTION: DO NOT use engine or transmission oil, mineral spirits, or kerosene.
3. Honing should be done by moving the hone up and down fast enough to get a crosshatch pattern (1). The hone marks should INTERSECT at 50° to 60° for proper seating of rings (2). 4. A controlled hone motor speed between 200 and 300 RPM is necessary to obtain the proper crosshatch angle. The number of up and down strokes per minute can be regulated to get the desired 50° to 60° angle. Faster up and down strokes increase the crosshatch angle. 5. After honing, it is necessary that the block be cleaned to remove all traces of abrasive. Use a brush to wash parts with a solution of hot water and detergent. Dry parts thoroughly. Use a clean, white, lint-free cloth to check that the bore is clean. Oil the bores after cleaning to prevent rusting.
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CYLINDER BLOCK
Thoroughly clean the oil pan and engine block gasket surfaces.
Use compressed air to clean out:
The galley at the oil filter Adapter hole. The front and rear oil galley holes. The feed holes for the crankshaft main bearings.
Once the block has been completely cleaned, apply Loctite PST pipe sealant with Teflon 592 to the threads of the front and rear oil galley plugs. Tighten the plugs to 34 N.m (25 ft. lbs.)
ENGINE BLOCK📷 1
1 - FRONT 2 - BORE GAUGE 3 - CYLINDER BORE 4 - 38 MM (1.5 in)
1. It is mandatory to use a dial bore gauge to measure each cylinder bore diameter. To correctly select the proper size piston, a cylinder bore gauge, capable of reading in 0.003 mm (.0001 in.) INCREMENTS is required. If a bore gauge is not available, do not use an inside micrometer. 2. Measure the inside diameter of the cylinder bore at three levels below top of bore. Start perpendicular
(across or at 90 degrees) to the axis of the crankshaft and then take two additional reading. 3. Measure the cylinder bore diameter crosswise to the cylinder block near the top of the bore. Repeat the measurement near the middle of the bore, then repeat the measurement near the bottom of the bore.
  4.   Determine taper by subtracting the smaller diameter from the larger diameter.
  5.   Rotate measuring device 90° and repeat steps above.
  6.   Determine out-of-roundness by comparing the difference between each measurement.
  7.   If cylinder bore taper does not exceed 0.025 mm (0.001 inch) and out-of-roundness does not exceed 0.015
mm (0.0006 inch), the cylinder bore can be honed. If the cylinder bore taper or out- of-round condition exceeds these maximum limits, the cylinder block must be replaced. A slight amount of taper always exists in the cylinder bore after the engine has been in use for a period of time.
CRANKSHAFT
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